Collected Moments of Survival

The enviable view from my tent is just the thing to make a studio special. I have to admit that I am feeling a little depressed. If you consider that I am on my African adventure then that statement is even more depressing. (Not to worry it does brighten up in a bit). I am not sure if the reason for my depression is the unrelenting heat or the realization that there are some unrelenting 21st-century “things” I am not sure I can accept as part of who I am. The main reason, of course, for the African adventure is to get into the bush (that I so passionately love) and hopefully steep myself in its magic and peace. However, the reality is far from that, especially here at Etosha.   The first shock, I think, was the sheer number of tourists in the park on a daily basis. I will add that   I am on the western side of the pan at the very popular Anderson Gate entrance. Due to the fact that I only go into the park every second day I have to go and pay entrance fees each time (bureaucra...

A Rüppels Griffon vulture coming in to land. A Lappet-Faced Vulture up close. Sometimes, one writes something and uses references from personal experience only to find out later that perhaps what you said isn’t quite accurate. And so it was pointed out to me that the information I had been given about Africa’s vultures was not quite correct.  This set me off on a research binge and then I discovered that the correction to my information was not quite correct either, or should I say, it could not be set in stone as the only behaviour of certain vultures. I will explain. The incorrect information I was given is that the Hooded Vulture is the vulture first on the scene at a kill/carcass and that they will open up the carcass if there is no predator already doing the job. The correction I was given is that it is the Lappet Faced Vulture, with its strong beak will be first on the scene and will open up the carcass. However, there is a danger in generalizations and of course, I think...

A leopard tortoise on a dusty road. Would you see it if you were travelling at 60kph? Desert Dome, is available at Fine Art Gallery in Swakopmund. This morning the wildlife gods gave me a visit by a huge bull elephant at the waterhole just in front of my mobile studio. And while it was a breathtaking moment in the many moments Africa has to offer it brought on another train of thought. Etosha, I have to say, is not a shining example of conservation at work against the odds. It would seem, here, there is a far greater emphasis on tourism as opposed to conservation. It is such a great pity that we are losing the plot, so to speak. In the greater scheme of things, I would really like us to sit back and take stock of what we are doing. If, as we all say, we are supporting these initiatives, such as Etosha and many others, then we, as tourists should be more mindful, more educated, and more caring about what we are doing. Etosha, or should I rather say, NWR, in their wisdom, have decided th...

The Direction from which the Lion's Roar floats over the plains. It was cooler today, and as I sit here at the end of the day enjoying a sundowner, there is a lion roaring in the distance.   What a privilege to be able to sit and simply listen to the sounds of Africa. The day started out with a drive into the Park (Etosha) and once again the poor car was put to the test over the corrugated roads. We headed for a waterhole called Salvadora, famous for its lion sightings, but alas, no lions today. Instead, we moved onto Rietfontein, a natural spring area, and settled in for a few hours.   Within minutes the few zebras that were there grew to about 100 and then 200 as they moved to the water to slake their thirst.   Then the wildebeest arrived followed by a rather large kudu herd. Africa was, once again, not disappointing. Then, suddenly, the zebras gave a few snorts of disgust, and low and behold a spotted hyena appeared as if from nowhere. That took care of all the plains ...

Welcome to Etosha National Park, where disappointment and dust go hand in hand! As you arrive at this renowned destination, you might find yourself wondering if you've stumbled upon a car race rather than a peaceful wildlife sanctuary. With cars zooming by at 60kph, it's no wonder that the air is constantly filled with a cloud of dust. Forget about having a picturesque safari experience - here, it's all about dodging dust particles! But wait, there's more! The facilities at Etosha National Park are not exactly top-notch. In fact, they might leave you feeling less than impressed. Prepare yourself for encounters with public toilets that could easily be mistaken for scenes from a horror movie. Yes, they are that disgusting! It seems like the park management missed the memo on cleanliness and basic hygiene. And if you were hoping to enjoy a lovely picnic amidst nature's beauty, think again. Etosha National Park seems to have forgotten the importance of providing ample p...

World Lion Day:  A Celebration of the Majestic King of the Savannah. Its been a bit of a Lion-fest here at Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park these past two days. I went off searching for a leopard yesterday and instead found a sleeping lion (after driving a couple of kms). I only had about an hour with him when along came a maintenance crew whose presence he disdainfully observed by moving off out of sight. Luckily I had got a couple of photos which will soon become new artworks! Then the long drive back started out only to be interrupted by another sighting of a lion, this one had managed to nab himself an Oryx and he was lying in the bush cooling down next to his precious meal. The end of the day came and we had to hotfoot it out of the park. So, this morning, off we set again and there he was, still next to his kill but luckily this time, in the perfect morning light, he was visible. And much to our surprise we spied a 3 cheetah coalition on the opposite side of the riverbed observin...

I have now been in the Kalahari for three weeks and sadly I have not done one blog entry, despite the fact that every day there is something new to show.  This has to stop and from now there will be more about my travels each week. I'll just jump in with yesterday but may end up reflecting a little more on days gone by.  Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is a very different kind of game viewing experience. Distances are long and the roads are not always the best in the world but each and every day there is something else. Yesterday, despite the fact that I did not see too many animals of the feline persuasion that I could photograph there were many other opportunities. And the oddest one so far, was the black back jackal. We came upon 5 individuals who were looking a little testy with each other. After much looking through binoculars and camera lenses I finally worked out what the reason was for the gathering. There was a bundle of fur lying under a tree. Despite desperately trying...

Burchell's Zebra posing with their friend the Red Billed Oxpecker. Size 50cm x 45cm   An ant bit me on my bum! A tiny little black ant that had no business being in my bed. However, when you are camping in the “wilds” of Africa, ants are probably the lesser of the challenges you have to deal with. Among others there are marauding Vervet monkeys who, it may be added, can open many devices such as zips to tents and clips on “ammo” boxes. And the list goes on. My first foray of my African Adventure started in the Kruger National Park. A mild introduction to the “wild” bit. However, the list of visitors to our humble abode makes up quite a long list.   These are all chancers of another ilk. They have learned to navigate past the ignorance of the homo sapiens and rely completely on our naive natures. Smash and grab takes on another meaning in the Kruger Park where one is want to lose any number of food items. During my stay of 33 days I learnt to open and close doors with more dili...