Collected Moments of Survival

The enviable view from my tent is just the thing to make a studio special. I have to admit that I am feeling a little depressed. If you consider that I am on my African adventure then that statement is even more depressing. (Not to worry it does brighten up in a bit). I am not sure if the reason for my depression is the unrelenting heat or the realization that there are some unrelenting 21st-century “things” I am not sure I can accept as part of who I am. The main reason, of course, for the African adventure is to get into the bush (that I so passionately love) and hopefully steep myself in its magic and peace. However, the reality is far from that, especially here at Etosha.   The first shock, I think, was the sheer number of tourists in the park on a daily basis. I will add that   I am on the western side of the pan at the very popular Anderson Gate entrance. Due to the fact that I only go into the park every second day I have to go and pay entrance fees each time (bureaucra...

The Direction from which the Lion's Roar floats over the plains. It was cooler today, and as I sit here at the end of the day enjoying a sundowner, there is a lion roaring in the distance.   What a privilege to be able to sit and simply listen to the sounds of Africa. The day started out with a drive into the Park (Etosha) and once again the poor car was put to the test over the corrugated roads. We headed for a waterhole called Salvadora, famous for its lion sightings, but alas, no lions today. Instead, we moved onto Rietfontein, a natural spring area, and settled in for a few hours.   Within minutes the few zebras that were there grew to about 100 and then 200 as they moved to the water to slake their thirst.   Then the wildebeest arrived followed by a rather large kudu herd. Africa was, once again, not disappointing. Then, suddenly, the zebras gave a few snorts of disgust, and low and behold a spotted hyena appeared as if from nowhere. That took care of all the plains ...

Welcome to Etosha National Park, where disappointment and dust go hand in hand! As you arrive at this renowned destination, you might find yourself wondering if you've stumbled upon a car race rather than a peaceful wildlife sanctuary. With cars zooming by at 60kph, it's no wonder that the air is constantly filled with a cloud of dust. Forget about having a picturesque safari experience - here, it's all about dodging dust particles! But wait, there's more! The facilities at Etosha National Park are not exactly top-notch. In fact, they might leave you feeling less than impressed. Prepare yourself for encounters with public toilets that could easily be mistaken for scenes from a horror movie. Yes, they are that disgusting! It seems like the park management missed the memo on cleanliness and basic hygiene. And if you were hoping to enjoy a lovely picnic amidst nature's beauty, think again. Etosha National Park seems to have forgotten the importance of providing ample p...

The wilderness of Africa is a shrinking concept in the face of an exponentially burgeoning human populace that is encroaching more and more into areas that for millennia have belonged only to the savagely wild and wonderful beasts that roam its plains. Reaching these now isolated pockets of wilderness means travel of thousands of kilometers for those wishing to share in its magic. And so it is that after two days of travel I find myself sitting at the gates of Etosha National Park in Namibia. It is day five of a seven day sojourn that we decide the day will be well spent next to a waterhole for the whole day. We’re there just as soon after sunrise as we can muster and we settle down for the day. The first very curious visitor to our vehicle is a Pied Crow who spends the day hopping from car to car looking for something to eat. Bets are on that he is regularly fed titbits from disobedient tourists! The first visitors to the waterhole in large numbers are some ...

It is our last day in the Etosha National Park today and we decide to only visit our favorite waterholes. After a quick visit to Blesbokfontein waterhole where we are lucky enough to get a black rhino out in the open we head off to Rietfontein, an active waterhole where we are guaranteed some action. By now I even have a favorite spot to park to get the best shots on offer and we wait. We are not disappointed as wave after wave of elephants pass us by. Finally, the big herd arrives. Today, instead of going around the back of the waterhole they pass close by as there is a group of rambunctious young males splashing around on the far side of the pond. There is nothing more exciting than landing up in the middle of a group of elephants and their close proximity certainly heightens the experience. The leader of the group today is the matriarch's youngest offspring. As the group quickly move forward with their measured steps the young elephant has difficulty in keeping...

Spend enough time in the bush and soon it will reveal more than just a glimpse of an animal or two, a whole new world waits for those who seek it.The longer periods of time I spend in the bush the more I envy the Game Ranger who gets out to see the animals every day and is afforded much more than just a glimpse. On our trip to Etosha Pan in July one little elephant decided to allow us more than just a cursory glance. En-route to the Rietfontein waterhole we are stopped dead in our tracks on the busiest route in the reserve by a black rhino with her calf. However, a black rhino normally only affords one a fleeting glimpse and this rhino was no different. She soon crosses the road and the grass folds around the pair as they disappear from sight. We move on and only a matter of a few hundred metres further there is a small breeding herd of elephants right next to the road. A cow and calf are the first to move across onto the road. They pick up the white dust off the road and blo...

It's 6.30am Namibian time, the the ominous dark gate blocks our path to getting where we need to go. I anxiously watch the Eastern horizon where the sun is starting to brighten the sky. To pass the time I apply sunblock to my face and lips willing the gatekeeper to appear. Then, just as the first golden orange sliver appears the gate miraculously slides open and after some flashing of papers we are finally on our way. First turn to the right and we hit the white chalky roads of Etosha. There are few animals to be seen and soon the bush breaks into open plains that are just perfect for a cheetah. But, of course there isn't a cheetah in sight.  First stop is Gemsbokvlakte, a barren waterhole, amidst the white chalk.  We stop in the designated parking area, there is hardly an animal in sight. We're new to this so we decide to wait. Soon enough a few springbok appear and a quick scuffle around the waterhole between two rams sets my shutter off. But, that is all ...